Cooking Around the World: Kathmandu Moonshine
/
Ingredients:
1 round-trip plane ticket to Kathmandu
2 500-rupee cab rides to Bhaktapur
80 ml homemade aiyla
A strong sense of adventure
Kathmandu Moonshine
Nepal isn’t known for its alcohol – but it definitely should be. Across the country, the varieties of booze are nearly as diverse as the population and the geography. From warm fermented millet that you drink through a straw (‘tongba’) in the Himalayas, to the dubious bottles of Challenger whiskey in the roadhouses along the Indian border – you’re never far from a new cocktail experience.
But, in this writer’s opinion, the Mt. Everest of tipples is the eye-watering moonshine exclusive to the medieval city of Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur, like the rest of the Kathmandu valley, is home to generations of Newari traders and artisans. Responsible for the incredible architecture of the ancient cities, this group has also been refining the art of distillation for hundreds of years.
While technically illegal, moonshine is not hard to find if you have a strong stomach and a sense of adventure. The canyon streets of old Bhaktapur are peppered with local restaurants, each serving their own special variety of aiyla, complimented by dishes of spicy buffalo meat that defy the imagination. But the best aiyla is found in the homes of the Newari families, and is an essential element of every ritual or blessing.
Served in small brass or unfired clay cups, the drink is something best taken in tiny sips. Aiyla is so strong that to test the purity, you dip your finger into the stuff and light it on fire. If it doesn’t burn – best to stay away. Some of the very best quality moonshine is also used to help massage sore muscles.
Aiyla, when made well, is spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It burns the throat, which opens to let the spices in. It craves companionship from the salty and spicy dishes that come on endless small plates. Before you know it, you’ve lost count of the refills. And that’s when the best part shines through.
When you are tipsy on Aiyla, you’re half asleep. The beautiful 16th century architecture sways slowly in the evening. The old city breathes with the closing of shutter doors and devotees playing devotional songs on ancient instruments. You pile yourself into a cab and head towards home – eyes half closed, but heart completely and blissfully open.